How To Use A Derma Roller: Step-By-Step Guide




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Microneedling 101


Skin care tools are the secret keys to youthful, glowing skin. And as far as I’m concerned, no anti-aging skincare routine is complete without at least two!


One of my favourite at-home treatments that keeps my skin glowing is microneedling. Which is anything but micro in the beauty world today.


Reports from Treatwell, a beauty appointment booking platform tells us microneedling treatments have raised by 127 percent recently.


And its popularity is not confined to professional clinics. At-home derma rollers are selling like hotcakes too.



Whether it's acne scars, sunspots, hyperpigmentation marks, or just plain old aging, dermarolling may be the answer to you prayers. Referred to as medical micro-needling, this procedure was strictly professional-only until recently. Prices range from £250- £350 for a single treatment. You'll need 6-8 treatment depending on your skin issue to achieve your desired results.


I highly recommend getting microneedling done by a professional if you don't feel confident doing it yourself.

However, if new beauty tools excite you as much as me, then maybe you've been wanting to try out a dermaroller for some time. But, you have a lot of questions —how often should you use a derma roller? How to clean a derma roller? How to use a derma roller??


the ultimate beginners guide to microneedling



Microneedling is a complex treatment, and should not be carried out at home without doing your homework. There's a lot to learn before you put a derma roller anywhere near your face. So, let's get into this.


By the end of this post you will know;

  1. How to buy a safe derma roller

  2. Correct post-care products

  3. How to properly clean a derma roller

  4. How often should you micro-needle?

  5. What size needle to choose?

  6. Micro-needling at home step-by-step directions








What Is Micro-Needling?


Firstly, a little bit of skincare history. Micro-needling has actually been around for a surprisingly long time. The first recorded use of a derma roller was over a century ago. A German dermatologist, Ernst Kromayer experimented with dental burrs mounted on a motor-driven flexible cord to treat scars, birthmarks and pigmentation.


Thankfully we've come a long way since 1905! Today's micro needle roller is a small hand-held device that is used to roll over areas of the face. It looks a lot like a miniature paint roller covered in hundreds of tiny titanium needles.


I know, stabbing your face with tiny needles sounds like torture to me too! But, the results of microneedling are quite remarkable if done correctly and regularly. This is because the needles create lots of 'micro-injuries' that signal your body to produce more collagen and elastin to repair the affected area. This extra boost makes for plumper, tighter skin therefore giving a more youthful appearance with reduced lines and wrinkles.




"I do micro-needling! I just learned about it a couple months ago from a facialist in New York. It allows the serums and whatever products you’re using to really sink in" – Jennifer Aniston

What Aniston is referring to is the fact that micro-needling can dramatically accelerate the effects of topical serums. It provides a short window of opportunity for post-treatment products to permeate the skin through fresh channels, reaching levels of the epidermis, at concentrations otherwise impossible. Far exceeding the depth at which skincare can normally penetrate the skin.


According to the experts micro-needling works on all skin types. But, it is especially effective for those who have dark patches on the skin from acne scarring or hyperpigmentation. "By creating small areas of injury, it jumpstarts the skins repair cycle, inducing collagen and elastin synthesis," says Dr Maryam Zamani, an Oculoplastic surgeon, Aesthetic Doctor and creator of MZ Skin



"It can also be used on hyperpigmentation because it helps shed the top layer of skin while also helping in the absorption of topical agents that can be used concurrently to help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation," says Dr Zamani.


Dermarolling can help reduce acne scars, stretch marks, cellulite, large pores and can even be used for hair regrowth. Aesthetician Kerry Benjamin, founder of Stacked Skincare tells SELF magazine that the purpose of micro-needling is two-fold: to stimulate collagen production and to increase the absorption of skincare products. "With the right corrective serums, micro-needling is an effective, powerful way to prevent the aging process and create a youthful glow," says Benjamin.





Micro-Needling For The Lips


Vlogger Farah Dhukai claims at-home derma rolling to be an alternative for lip fillers.

"I've thought about getting fillers, but decided to try THIS alternative method instead and I LOVE IT!" says Dhakai in her Instagram post which shows her micro-needling her lips.






6 STEP GUIDE TO MICRO-NEEDLING


As with any at-home skin device it's always best to ask esthetician for advice first, and even book a few treatments. Especially when it involves needles.


I highly recommend doing your own research before putting a dermaroller anywhere near your face. To perform a safe micro-needling treatment you need to prepare properly or you run the risk damaging your skin.




1. How To Buy A Safe Derma Roller


Amazon knockoffs from china are great for some things. But not when it comes to buying a derma roller for your face. Don't buy a fake micro needle roller! Look for a titanium needle roller with individual needles, as opposed to needle wheels (pictured below) which can damage the skin.


A good rule of thumb when buying derma rollers is to compare prices. If one is much cheaper than the rest, then it's likely a bad quality roller. It's best to buy from a reputable company and an authorized reseller. Also, look for the holographic sticker on the case.





*Check out The Rich Skin Club Shop for more of my personal derma roller recommendations here






2. Post Microneedling Products


Post-care products are just as important as safe rollers. These tiny holes that you've just punctured all over your face will act as channels transporting whatever you apply directly into your epidermis.


Therefore, it's crucial to use clean beauty formulas post microneedling. Check the ingredient lists. Using a serum with known synthetic irritants, like fragrance or harsh alcohols will damage your skin.

* Check out my personal post-care recommendations here




Your skin needs hydrating, nourishing and replenishing ingredients right now. Hyaluronic acid is one of the best ingredients to use post microneedling. It is a skin identical ingredient and will not cause irritation to sensitized skin.


If you have dry skin, after serum apply an organic botanical oil.


It's very important that skin is kept clean too. So don't touch your face unnecessarily and make sure your pillowcase is clean. Avoid the gym, makeup, fake tan and sun exposure for 24-48 hours depending on the needle size used.


*Avoid using any products that contains actives ingredients, such as retinols/retin A, vitamin C, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or kojic acid.







3. How To Clean Your Dermaroller


Improper use of a derma roller can be hazardous because it involves breaking the surface of the skin.


Isopropyl rubbing alcohol 70% is needed to properly sterilize derma rollers —before and after use. Not mouthwash, barbicide, witch hazel, Dettol, or any other disinfecting agents.


70% isopropyl alcohol is recommended over 99% because it evaporates more slowly, remaining in contact with microbial organisms for a longer than 99%. This means it kills everything!


First wash your derma roller carefully in soapy water (dish soap is suitable) and rinse. Then soak it in 70% isopropyl alcohol. You can also spray your roller with the alcohol, just make sure you thoroughly soak it.


*After use a dermaroller 1mm or above must be washed and rinsed before sterilizing. Alcohol cannot dissolve the proteins found in skin and blood.







4. How Often Should You Use A Derma Roller


Needle sizes range between 0.2mm —the smallest, up to 2.5mm. But, unless you're a seasoned skin pro anything above a 1.0mm should be performed by a professional only. These derma rollers can draw blood and for obvious reasons need a numbing cream!


The professionals suggest starting with the smallest needle size and time your treatments accordingly;

  • 0.2/0.25mm - Every other day

  • 0.5mm - Once a week

  • 0.75mm - Every 3 weeks

  • 1.0mm - Once a month

  • 1.5mm - Once every 6 weeks

  • 2.0mm/2.5mm - Once every 8 weeks


0.20mm and 0.25mm needles are too short to stimulate collagen synthesis. They can be used more frequently to help topical products penetrate deeper into the skin.



I use a 0.5mm derma roller once a week, a 1.0mm once a month, and a 0.25mm on my lips and around my eyes.


I also use a 0.2mm needle a couple of times a week before applying my serums, oils and night cream.


*If using oils post micro-needling make sure they're organic.






5. What Size Needle To Choose?


Derma roller needles come in various sizes to treat different skin concerns. Check the chart below to see which needle size you need. Keep in mind that 0.20mm and 0.25mm needles are too short to stimulate collagen synthesis. They can be used more frequently as part of your skincare routine to help topical products penetrate deeper into the skin.








6. Step-by-Step Directions



  • Start on one half of the face and work in small sections till you've covered the entire area.


  • Start with the outermost part of your cheek in front of the ear. Roll vertically up and down 3-4 times in the same spot.

  • Lift the roller up off the skin (never drag) and move inwards repeating the vertical rolling two more times in that section.


  • Now roll horizontally across the same section, back and forth 3-4 times. Lifting and rolling to cover section.

  • Now go over the same area in diagonal lines. You want to make sure you needle every mm of your face.


  • Roll your brows carefully and avoid the eye area unless using a 0.2mm roller. Never roll the eyelids.


  • Move in small sections all around the face until you have covered one half, then repeat on the other side.


You can microneedle your neck. It should take around 20 minutes to roll your entire face. Roll around your nose as much as possible if you have large pores in this area. Only roll around the mouth and lips with a 0.2mm roller. Spend extra time on frown lines if this is an area of concern for you.


A couple of things to keep in mind, pressure should be firm, not heavy. Sterilize hands if using a 1mm derma roller. Apply serums and oils immediately after you finish. I highly recommend using night cream post-microneedling. Apply sunscreen when leaving the house.



  • DO NOT USE A DERMAROLLER ON ACTIVE ACNE, RAISED SCARS/KELOID SCARS, RAISED MOLES OR ANY SKIN ABNORMALITIES.


  • DO NOT SHARE YOUR DERMA ROLLER.


  • DISINFECT YOUR DERMA ROLLER BEFORE AND AFTER USE.


  • STAY OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT AFTER MICRO-NEEDLING.




RESULTS


The results of microneedling are not instant. It takes anywhere from 3-6 months of consistent treatments to see result.


This is a procedure you really have to commit yourself to, but will pay off over time.


I have been microneedling regularly for two years now, with great results. Around the 3-4 month mark I began to see improvements. Reduced lines, faded pigmentation marks and scars, plumper, softer more hydrated skin. I also use a radio frequency/LED light device which makes a big difference to my results.


Get the guide! I've created an amazing step-by-step microneedling guide to help you get started on your derma rolling journey.


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